Arriving in Queenstown, and I was immediately at home. We ate good food in quirky restaurants, had coffees in quaint harborside cafes, and even watched street performers' shows during a city-wide fundraiser for Christchurch. This was the kind of town I knew well. It was one of those tourist towns where many came and went, but there was a whole population of travelers who came, and just couldn't figure out how to leave. People from all over the world, walking around somewhat aimlessly, happily confused about their travel plans, or any plans at all for that matter. They're not sure what happened, or whats supposed to happen next, they only know that they didn't plan on staying this long, don't plan on leaving anytime soon, and can't be bothered to think about anything else. I liked these kinds of towns. I liked Queenstown. And I, too, began to feel the alluring draw of her siren's song.
We were supposed to hike the Routeburn Track over the course of the next three days. but the weather became real sour, real fast After speaking to a nice lady with no front teeth, we were able to change our plans to a later day. Mariel mentioned going to Stuart Island instead, the southernmost point in NZ. I knew that was the right call. But, I have to admit, I could feel Queenstown tempting my return for hours down the road; a part of me almost searching for a reason to turn back!
We had to stay in a town called Invercargill, which is actually even less appealing than its name. Cold, big, empty, and everyone walks around with a chip on their shoulder. But the next morning we were on the ferry to Stewart Island. It was a long, bumpy trip over the next hour, and a few people became sick in the readily available "barf bags". Even Mariel was looking a little green, but finally, we made it.
We spent the next few days walking around secluded bays, through bird filled forests, and around natural harbors. It was so untouched here. The forest went right down and even into the crystal clear and brutally cold sea. We enjoyed what was apparently some of the best weather they had had in a while. From the insects to the birds to the trees, and especially the people, everything seemed so very happy that the sun was out.
(4 photos!)
We explored the island, and even one next to it that was a "predator free bird sanctuary", except apparently some rats had made it on and were causing a bit of a ruccus. The birds were almost too tame. Apparently after a lifetime of nothing ever trying to harm them, they had become quite trusting. The birds would come right up to us, and even peck at our toes if you stood in place for too long!
After Stuart Island, we went on to the infamous Milford Sound. I have to say, I wasn't that impressed from the start. I remember thinking to myself,
"I wish I could just be blown away by this place, but I'm not…"
And just then, we rounded a corner, and I was blown away.
It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. Dramatic, glacier carved mountains jutted high into the sky like sore thumbs. It was truly something out of a movie. One after another, they penetrated the deep blue sky, and then were followed by steep, river valleys with rivers flowing through them as blue as the sky.
There was something new around every corner. Besides being the land of a million waterfalls, the lush vegetation, azure rivers, and abundant bird and plant life made it truly a sight to be seen. It was one of those places that was so beautiful that your mind wouldn't accept it at first. You could look around, and recognize how much beauty there was, but it took a few days for it to actually sink in, so that you could FEEL that Beauty.
We were driving around, checking out waterfalls and mirrored lakes, when suddenly around a corner, the car stalled on the way down a hill. I went to turn the key to get it started again, but nothing. Jesus we have the worst luck in cars… We were miles away from any cell reception, but knew of a holiday park about 7 km away which would probably have a phone. Time to get AA back to work! I knew it was mostly downhill, so I started to push to see if we could just coast the car to the bottom.
(5 photos!)
Just then, a Dutch couple pulled over and asked if we wanted a ride, which we obviously did. I sat in back as the couple and Mariel began chit chatting up front while we drove on down the road. All of a sudden, I started getting really scared. This guy was the worst driver I had seen in a while! And unbelievably fast! Every few minutes we'd swerve from a car or giant pothole and then recklessly regain speed down the road. Every time there was a close call, the couple would glance at us with a one of those surprised looks on their faces, like a "wasn't that close!" look, and laugh!!
"I can't believe it," I remember thinking. "After everything that's happened I'm gonna die because of a reckless Dutchman."
After multiple swerves which were inevitably followed by their wide-eyed looks of surprise and laughter, we finally made it to the holiday park. We said our thank you's and goodbyes, and walked away.
Just then the Dutchman slammed on the gas in reverse.
"Watch out!" I yelled, as a Chinese man taking a photo literally came within inches of getting hit. He stared at them in utter shock at what almost happened. In fact, if I hadn't said anything, I'm pretty positive he would have been hit.
The Dutchmen, equally surprised to see him there, apologized to the guy, looked over at us with that same surprised grin on their faces, and sped off again down the road.
We went into the office and asked to use the phone. The old lady on the other side of the desk was just all too pleased to tell us,
"Na, there ain't a phone around here for miles!" the lady said with a smile on her face.
This kiwi guy behind us said he knew a bit about cars, and could have a look, and even offered to drive us back.
"Which one is it?" he asked.
"It's the one with the AA on the sides," I replied.
He gave me a funny look…. The AA cars were the ones that came out to fix broken down cars.
"It's a loaner," I said.
We finally arrived and popped the hood. After a few minutes, he saw that one of the battery leads was breaking off. A couple of adjustments with a wrench and screw driver, and VROOM! it fired right up! After many thanks, off we went.
"Yup, sure. But I'm pretty sure the leads are under that," he pointed back to the boat.
I looked over to see a giant deer carcass in the back of the boat.
"If you don't mind helpin' us lift him up we could get 'em out."
I said I would help, but admittedly was really not looking forward to it.
"No, here they are" his friend said from the truck.
I was only too relieved to see him holding the jumper cables.
"Did you shoot that from the boat?" I asked half laughing.
"Sure did!" he replied.
Haha! I couldn't help but laugh at the idea of a couple of kiwi guys going down the river with beers and a rifle, hunting from their boat. Apparently New Zealand has red necks too!
I got a ride back to our car hanging on to the back of the boat, a look of shock on Mariel's face as I arrived hanging on near a giant deer carcass.
"Haha! You're in a AA car!", the guy laughed.
"It's a loaner," I said, shrugging and smiling.
We hooked up the jumpers, and she started right up.
We did an amazing overnight cruise through Milford Sound soon after that, and it was so nice to be out on the water, and get the views that you just can't get from land. Plus, we were able to get up close and personal to the 500+ foot waterfalls that came crashing into the sea! Very cool…
Dolphins followed the boat around the harbor, the food was actually quite good, and Mariel and I were even lucky enough to get our own room. We were even allowed to take the kayaks out of the back, but the hordes of sand flies were absolutely unreal, and sent everyone back to the main boat in no time.
Dolphins followed the boat around the harbor, the food was actually quite good, and Mariel and I were even lucky enough to get our own room. We were even allowed to take the kayaks out of the back, but the hordes of sand flies were absolutely unreal, and sent everyone back to the main boat in no time.
Finally, it was time to go. On our way out of Milford, we stopped and waited our turn at the infamous tunnel that connects Milford Sound to the outside world. It was about a mile long, and was unbelievably creepy as it looked as if it had been chiseled out by hand, with jagged rocks pointing in every direction, and water continually dripping down the sides of the walls down onto the road.
As we were idling there, the engine started to get really really hot. I knew that we were super low on oil, but there had been no place to buy any for so long. I decided to turn the engine off while we waited, just in case, and let it cool down for a while. The light turned green so I gave the key a turn.. but nothing. A few more tries, but no, nothing. I sighed. God damn AA car…
(5 photos!)
I hitchhiked to the other side of the tunnel to use the emergency phone and called the operator. I asked her to call AA for me and tell them to bring some oil, but that it was probably just the battery lead.
"And what kind of car should they be looking for sir?" asked the lady on the other end.
I sighed,
"It's the one with the AA logo on the side."
"You mean its an AA car?" She asked.
"No, well... its a loaner…"
I couldn't help but smile.
No comments:
Post a Comment